Here's a look at what we'll be covering today:
- Shooting modes, or the different ways your camera can assist you in taking a photograph.
- Flash modes and when to use them.
- What different image enhancement settings do and what they're good for.
- Shooting assistance functions, like auto focus.
- A brief look at video mode.
Shooting Modes
Most cameras come with a few different types of shooting modes, from full automatic to full manual. We're going to take a look at the most common and discuss when you should use them. You may not be familiar with terms like shutter speed, aperture, and ISO but don't worry—we'll be going over those in detail in the next lesson.
Automatic takes care of everything for you. There's not much to explain here.
Program automatic
sets your aperture and shutter speed automatically, but gives you
control over other settings like ISO (the rating that affects how
sensitive your camera's sensor is to light—similar to film speed in film
cameras).
Scene modes
generally have icons to represent their purpose, such as a mountain for
landscapes or a fast-moving person for sports. Scene modes can be
useful if you want the camera to assist you in photographing the types
of photos each mode is designed for, but hopefully after you're done
with these lessons you won't need or want to use them anymore.
Shutter priority
allows you to set the shutter speed and ISO but allows the camera to
set the aperture automatically. This mode is useful if the shutter speed
is the most important consideration when taking a photo. This is often
the case when you want to make sure you take a photo fast enough to
capture motion but do not care about the aperture. This is useful for
photography sports, dance, or anything with a lot of movement.
Aperture priority
allows you to set the aperture and ISO but lets the camera set the
shutter speed automatically. This is useful when the aperture is the
most important consideration in your photograph. The aperture can have
some of the greatest visual impact on your photographs because it is one
of the largest contributing factors to depth of field. A wide aperture
(represented by a low f-stop like f/1.8) will produce a photo where your
subject is in sharp focus but the background is very much out of focus.
This is useful for portraits, or focusing on a single object in an
otherwise busy frame. A narrow aperture (represented by a higher f-stop,
like f/8) will produce a photo where most everything appears to be in
focus. This is useful for landscapes, or any other situation where
keeping everything in focus is desirable. Wider apertures also let in
more light, so they're useful when you don't have much and want to avoid
using a flash. Aperture priority is one of the best shooting modes your
camera has because you can still control your ISO settings (light
sensitivity) and the shutter speed is often something that's best left
for the camera to decide unless you have a reason to choose it yourself.
Don't worry if you don't fully understand this yet. We'll be discussing
aperture, shutter speed, and ISO in much more detail in the next
lesson.
Manual
mode lets you set everything, and we'll be discussing this mode in
detail in the next lesson. It's worth noting, however, that this mode
does not imply manual focus with DSLR cameras. Switching between manual
and automatic focus is generally a dedicate hardware toggle switch on
your lens and not on the camera. If you want to focus manually on a
DSLR, you can use any shooting mode you want if the switch is set to
manual on the lens.Flash Modes
Your camera has a couple of different flash modes, and most of them you'll never need. Here's what they're called and what they do.
Automatic flash
will only fire the flash when needed, which the camera determines by
reading the available light on the subject. This generally happens when
there isn't enough light anywhere in the frame or if the subject is
backlit and appears dark to the camera as a result.
Automatic flash with red eye reduction
works the same as the regular automatic flash mode but attempts to
reduce the red eye effect that flashes often produce. If you're going to
use an automatic flash mode, you might as well use this one.
Forced/Fill-in flash
means the flash fires with every exposure regardless of whether or not
the camera believes it's necessary. This is the mode you choose when you
know you're always going to need the flash, or just think it's funny to
cause temporary blindness to a bunch of people in rapid succession.
Slow shutter flash (with red-eye reduction)
is what you want to use in a very low light situation, as the shutter
speed will be reduced and the flash needs to offer a repeated bursts of
light to compensate. If you're using an automatic mode, the camera will
determine when this is necessary and do it automatically. If you know
you're going to need a slow shutter flash, however, you can force it
with this mode.
No flash is pretty obvious. It turns the flash off so it won't be used under any circumstances.Fancier flashes will have additional modes and settings on the flash units themselves, so if you have a nice external flash be sure to experiment with everything it can do.
Image Enhancement Settings
Not
all cameras have image enhancement settings, but it's become more
common in DSLRs and nicer compact cameras in recent years. The ones you
want to want to pay the most attention to are lighting correction and
noise reduction. Lighting (and tone) correction, which is referred to as
D-lighting on Nikon cameras and Auto Lighting Optimizer and Highlight
Tone Priority (the modes are split into two) on Canon, will try to
retain more detail from under- and over-exposed parts of your
photographs while improving color as well. Noise reduction does what
you'd expect—it reduces noise. It also reduces detail. Lighting
correction tends to increase noise. Basically, these modes are nice but
they have their drawbacks. Often times you can set how aggressively they
alter your photos. Low settings are recommended.Video Mode
We're dealing with photography, so we're not going to talk much about video mode. It's also handled very differently by different cameras as there isn't currently much of a standard. Additionally, video mode varies significantly between the different types of cameras. Point-and-shoots can often automatically focus very quickly in video mode and act a lot like a dedicated video camera. Compact mirror-less cameras with interchangeable lenses tend to provide a higher quality video but automatically focus a bit slower and are not terribly easy to focus manually. DSLR cameras generally produce the highest quality video, automatically focus extremely poorly (if they do at all), but provide excellent control over manual focus. If you're recording video with a DSLR, you'll want to become comfortable with manually focusing your lenses.
When you record video on any camera, it's generally saved in the same folder as your photos on your flash card, but some cameras have a dedicated folder for video. If the file was saved as an AVI, MOV, or MP4, you should be able to just copy it off your camera and play it back. All of these formats also work fine for uploading to video sharing sites like YouTube or Vimeo. Other formats may be video streams which generally require conversion to be useful, so consult your camera's manual if you don't recognize the file type.
If you'd like to learn more about video, be sure to check out our guide on recording great video with your DSLR.
That's all for this lesson, but next time we'll be diving into your camera's manual settings and learning how they affect its operation and the resulting photos. As always, if you're behind on our lessons, you can find everything you've missed and a PDF of all the lessons in the Basics of Photography Complete Guide.
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